Snuggle up by the fire in Ireland’s Cosiest Pubs and Bars

Dec 21, 2011 12 Comments by

It’s winter, it’s cold; which means if you’re David Fallon, you go on frost-edged walks around Northern Ireland.

However, your other trusted blogger has very different plans for the shivering season. For me, winter means a guilt-free Bailey’s Coffee by a big fire, watching snow fall through a tinsel-edged Georgian window and humming along to that Chris de Burgh song we would never tolerate the other festive-free eleven months of the year.

I was born on the right island. At this time, Ireland seems to be corner after corner of glowing pub doorways leading to cosy, inviting pubs with flames licking from the open fire and Shane McGowan’s throaty vocals oozing from the stereo.

Here then, I share my guide to the best pubs to cuddle up in this holiday season. No need to thank me, just send over a coffee when you see me by the fire. Milk, one sugar. And maybe a biscuit…

The Library Bar – flame-licking, light-twinklingly good

The Library Bar, Central Hotel, Dublin City

Declared ‘Dublin’s best kept’ secret by the Guardian, who obviously don’t understand the concept of a secret, it is with a heavy heart that I share the existence of the Library Bar with you too. My seat of choice by the fire will always be taken with this kind of exposure. Sigh.

Aileen clutching Baileys, and humming A Spaceman Came Travelling

The Library Bar in the Central Hotel is simply the perfect Dublin bar for winter. I don’t step inside it before late November. The cosy upholstered chairs, dark wood bookcases of musty books and roaring open fire, meet fairy lights and red velvet bows with the chemistry of reunited lovers. A bearded man in red and white sipping a whiskey in the corner wouldn’t merit a second glance, so perfectly attuned to the season is this chandelier-lit, high-ceiling space. The open fire, Bailey’s Coffee and low music are my refuge when Christmas shopping on the busy streets outside gets that teeny bit too much.

After New Year’s Eve, our affair goes dormant for another year. I prefer to remember it the way it was – discrete tinsel, fir trees and candles in the window.

Hargadons in Sligo (blurriness is camera style – not a result of the Guinness)

Hargadons, County Sligo

With a birthday back in 1864, Hargadons has seen many winters – and looks all the cosier for it. From the black flagstone floor to the cosy snugs, the interior has changed little since merchant Bernard Collery plyied his trade of groceries, beer, wine and spirits here in the 19th century. Framed receipts from the 1900s on the walls make for some elegant proof.

Hargadons: By the fire, by the book

The musty, curious atmosphere of a museum makes for some amusing adventure as you wait for your pint to settle. Peek into the old dispensary drawers, along the buckling shelves of old stout bottles, and curious array of dusty pottery. Then ease yourself into the ambience with a pint of black stuff and Fresh Lissadell Oysters by the fire.

Considering all the awards ­– ‘best Gastro Pub’ to ‘Pub of the Year’ to ‘Best Traditional Pub’ – I’m not the first to send you here and I won’t be the last.

 

Madeline’s shot of Jacob with a pint and an open fire in McDonnells

McDonnells, County Mayo

Coming across Belmullet (a town in Mayo, not a haircut), you can’t miss McDonnells. A traditional Irish pub serving craic agus ceol (that’s fun and music), and a great pint of Guinness. The massive roaring fire, well-pricked dart board, and live music ‘either the owner Padraic or a choice of many one-man bands’, stole the heart of this US student.

Madeline, from Oregan had this to say:

During our two-week stay out on the Belmullet Peninsula, Jacob and I quickly came to love going into Belmullet Town to grab a pint and some good conversation at McDonnells Pub. The cozy, open coal fireplace and tables made from old sewing machines make the pub especially homey. You don’t have to be a local to be made to feel right at home here.

 

There’s nothing cosier than a castle

Waterford Castle

This queen of coziness occupies a rather ‘ooh-aah’ location of an island (yes, the romantic reality of a castle on an island. And yes, Waterford Castle does weddings) . I visited this gothic pile for the first time last winter and had to be dragged kicking and screaming from a sofa snuggle-up beside what has to be the most sumptuous fireplace in Ireland.

Waterford Castle in the Snow

Before arriving, I had plans of long frosty walks and burning off my mince pie munching in the gym, but in the end I just glued myself to the fireside sofa (not really you understand, that would have been a mess and ruined my new jumper). Along with a twinkling Christmas tree and the quiet mumble of carols you could say, I was in my very own winter wonderland. Only that, I was inside. That counts, right?

What I’m trying to say is, be it a cold beer, a crisp Chardonnay, an alka seltzer or a cuppa, fireside tipples don’t get much cosier than this.

 

The glittering interior of the Duke of York pub

Duke of York, Belfast

If it wasn’t for the Historical Pubs Walking Tour, I’d have never found this place. Tucked along a cobbled laneway in the Cathedral Quarter, right opposite one of the cutest murals in Belfast (an archway of famous people from all over Ireland, from George Best to Bono), it’s the hanging baskets and loud hum of patronage that tells you you’re on to something.

Propping up the bar at the Duke of York

Inside, a glittering golden glow is cast along the walls and elegant tiles, courtesy of the lamps refracted through mirrors and countless antique whiskey bottles. It’s almost as beautiful as the Crown Bar Saloon, but with less tourists taking photographs and a lot more locals enjoying a pint. Walls that are not covered with whiskey bottles are plastered with drinking memorabilia, from old Guinness posters to age-spotted ciggarette mirrors. Local lore (or more specifically, my guide) tells me a young Gerry Adams poured pints here, Snow Patrol played some of their first gigs here and actor James Nesbitt has been known to pop in.

In summer, you can imagine quenching your thirst outside in the pretty cobbled laneway of flowers and murals. But come winter, everyone squishes in and gets toasty with a taste of their extensive whiskey range and a toasted sandwich.

Winter doesn’t get more wonderful than this.

Only a few more days to go! See what our blog has to say about all the parts of Christmas in Ireland.

 

Food & Drink, Music & Craic

About the author

Orla has lived in both Dublin and Kildare for a decade apiece and is torn between the two counties. In her spare time she loves a good read; Irish authors are the current favourite. When her nose is not in a book, she can be found eating at various restaurants in Dublin and scouring charity shops for 'granny chic' handbags. Orla likes to write about food, culture and heritage and loves Ireland's literary history. Favourite place: Bantry Bay, West Cork on a summer's day or George's Street Arcade, Dublin for some serious bargain-hunting.

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12 Responses to “Snuggle up by the fire in Ireland’s Cosiest Pubs and Bars”

  1. Jack Peterson says:

    I’m so ready to come there now! What a great review. Thanks! Merry Christmas.

  2. Lauren says:

    Hear, hear! Thank you, Aileen for a well-written piece that brings me right back where I want to be (any of the above places would do). Merry Christmas!

  3. Donna says:

    The Library at the Central Hotel is one of our faves! Love the atmosphere and the great staff!

  4. Carrie McNeal says:

    Oh, the pictures are lovely. I can almost taste that Guinness! Nothing like it here in the states that’s for sure. I can’t get back to Dublin soon enough. Thanks for the wonderful stroll down memory lane.

  5. Felicity Hayes-McCoy says:

    Lovely festive piece. Thanks, Aileen, I really enjoyed it. Love the Library Bar already, so great to see it in your photo – and definitely plan to love McDonnells if ever I’m in Mayo.

  6. Tom Sweeney says:

    Can’t beat the Duke of York, Belfast. Also recommend Neary’s in Chatham Street, Dublin.

  7. larry smith says:

    makes me wish I were there ———–NOW.

  8. Magdalen Bray says:

    Thirty five years ago, my husband proposed to me in a snowy Dublin, actually in Mulligan’s. It’s still my favourite.

  9. Jeff Ircink says:

    I’d like to add Johnnie Fox’s Pub just outside of Dublin. Now, it’s a big, long pub… but you still get that cozy feeling. Never been in a pub like it since.

  10. Janet Wehrer says:

    Aileen,
    Would you please put me on your list of readers? I would
    love to read your blog.

    Janet

  11. Cher says:

    Ever since stumbling onto The Central Hotel on an internet search of Dublin hotels, we always stay there when in Dublin. The Library Bar is on my list of my favorite places in the world. Great place to fill out your Vat tax over a Guinness, treat yourself to High Tea or read by the fire before bedtime with a Hot Toddy. Great place to watch people and and at the same time feel removed from the busy world outside. Something just magical about it! Will be there again in September. Can’t wait.
    Cher

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