Driving in Ireland – The Roadtrip of a Lifetime
They told her it couldn’t be done: driving from Dublin to the Cliffs of Moher, then to Galway and Donegal and back to Dublin. All in one weekend. And on the wrong side of the road.
Seattle student Caitlyn Johnson recounts her roadtrip of a lifetime around Ireland…
It began, in our minds at least, as a small weekend trip. Reality, and Ireland, soon took hold and it turned into a four-day adventure that will be hard to forget.
It was near the end of my three-month stay that my friend Ashley winged her way over from the land of the red, white and blue to the land where green is king, queen and well, pretty much everything else. We had decided to rent a car for our journey, so with a map of Ireland and plenty of Irish tunes to keep us company, we set our compass (okay, we didn’t actually use a compass, but it adds to the effect) for the glorious west coast. Exactly how glorious, we hadn’t dared to imagine.
Just your average fellow road users
Admittedly, driving our car was a little scary at first – making sure we were on the correct side of the road (“You’re sure, you’re totally sure this is the right side?!”) and actually staying in the correct lane were tasks that took a little getting used to. After a few wrong turns (okay, maybe more than a few), we left Dublin heading for the . Like any self-respecting tourists, we made frequent stops along the way to take pictures of particularly green patches of grass that we knew would fascinate people at home. We just had to snap the sheep and cows who blithely wandered at our front bumper (come on, you can’t come to Ireland and not get at least one photo of sheep!) Along the curvy roads, we made our way to our destination: The Cliffs of Moher. I’d seen them in The Princess Bride. I’d seen them in Harry Potter – but seeing, touching and experiencing them in all their very real and very right-in-front-of-me misty glory required a long cup of tea to stop my hands from shaking.
'I'm with them'
From the long journey of sightseeing that day, we decided to stop in at a bed and breakfast for the night (a full Irish breakfast is something to behold, as impressive on the plate as it is in your mouth). Galway City is as friendly, as cute and as compact as you have been led to believe. There’s a bohemian pep to its relaxed step, very much helped by the students who live here and populate the various coffee houses discussing how best to fix the world, etc. After dinner we headed across the street to a pub and enjoyed some good ol’ traditional music and a pint. Or two. Ahem…
Twice as Nice. They weren't joking.
Saturday morning we were headed to Dungloe, where I had family friends that we were meeting and staying with. Up we went, along Ireland’s rugged, dainty, astonishingly beautiful then rugged again west coast. Donegal is like nowhere in Ireland. The effects of the ice age are etched on the landscape with vast series of rock-strewn mountains, countless valleys filled in with small dark lakes and long deeply undulating roads. After an hour or so of the Donegal countryside (my camera was beginning to overheat) we arrived in the small seaside town. Dungloe is a cute-as-can be village that begins at the top of a hill and ends succinctly at the bottom. Inbetween are a comical amount of pubs jammed with locals who make it their business to engage you in chat. All so very Irish, all so very perfect. Once we reached the family home we were greeted with tea, queens cakes and some thick slices of that very famous Irish hospitality.
The name, the sign, the beer. Could Jacky Johnnie Sally's be my favourite pub in Ireland?
Once night hit and after an afternoon of sharing stories about who’s grown up, what they were like when they were little and how much everyone from the States would love to be here, we ventured into Dungloe town and visited some of the pubs and bars. Patrick Johnnie Sally’s (what a name!) was my personal favorite, with the stone arch interior and locals spending more time talking than drinking their pints.
Three people had to stop me from taking a dip. Have you ever seen a pool with this kind of location?
Our time was coming to too fast an end by Sunday, but we certainly weren’t about to let our trip go out with a whimper. Instead, Ashley and I pointed our chariot in the direction of , a collection of Mother Nature’s greatest hits of forest, mountains and valleys (I’d suggest bringing some spare oxygen – the views will most definitely take your breath away). Along with the overwhelmingly pretty nature, we found Glenveagh Castle nestled among a battalion of protective trees at the edge of one of the park’s many lakes (actually the first castle I’ve seen and I already know it can’t be topped). The tour of the castle was a real treat, especially for the fact that most of the building has been mercifully left how it was by the last owner. The pool was my favorite part, with the views of the lake and those rugged-as-hell Derryveagh Mountains.
'Rain? What rain? All I can see is my first castle!'
And so it was, with much sadness but with and endless stream of happy memories, that we left our little piece of heaven.
And there you have it. Driving in Ireland – the roadtrip of a lifetime.
We’ve had many visitors share their stories of their trip to Ireland. Read more from our guest bloggers.
Very nicely written! It almost feels like we are in the back-seat of the car!
What a lovely, lovely description of your few days! So glad you enjoyed your trip… you’ve described Galway so beautifully … and I know exactly what you mean about Donegal – it does take your breath away!
Margaret
Amazing!!! My son also just returned home from studying abroad in England and he and a friend went and stayed in Dublin for a weekend. I wish they had done this!!
Her description of her road trip was beautifully written.. I agree, you can feel like you are right there with them. I myself went to Ireland some 35 years ago on a guided tour and saw much of the countryside. There is no more beautiful place in the world in my opinion!!! Someday, I hope to return!!
Thank you for sharing entertaining story and impressive photos.
My wife and I had a similar road trip in Nov. 2010. Instead of going north to Galway, we went south to Kerry. It was a wonderful couple of days.
The McKinney’s
Dayton, Ohio USA
We explored the Connamara Peninsula in search of Conamarra Isles (no, not the famous Conamarra Links at the very end) Golf Course. The search was fun, and the golf course was a delight. One hole requires the golfer to hit over first one and then another deep crevice cut by the sea. The clubhouse is a charming pub. I recommend this course to any golfer looking for an enjoyable and memorable round on a rustic course in a glorious setting.
You are one brave girl! I’ve been to Ireland 5 times and totally love it…have been to most of the places you photographed and although I drive everywhere in the States I’ve not been brave enough to drive in Ireland!! My favorite photo is the one with the sheep in the road…saw this many times on Achill Island.
I like the way you write….must be an Irish girl! Anyway in March my niece Amanda and I are going on our own road trip we will be traveling up the west coast of Ireland thru County Clare and Sligo…gotta see the Cliffs of Moher and some castles also. Definetely will stop in the pubs and raise a few pints…Slainte! Thanks for sharing your adventure.
Ohhhhhh. I have wanted to go to Ireland for YEARS. I got half way there with a trip to Scotland last year. Now I am saving up for Ireland. What a wonderful trip you had. A dream trip. Hope mine is every bit as good when it happens!
Thank you for sharing your road trip in Ireland and how absolutely lovely it is there. I needed to read that you
drove and had a safe trip as we will be driving in Ireland in May.
Sounds like I was back in Ireland!!!! God how I wish!!! We drove from Dublin across to Galway and had a great time driving!!! I love the twisted roads and all the little villages you come across. Driving is the best way to see Ireland, just get in your car and get lost!!!!! explore the wonder country that it is!!!!!!
Reading about your adventures is making me even more excited for my two week trip in March. I hope I have as much fun as you did.
Loved your story! I would of loved being on your road trip with you. Ireland is so beautiful!! When I was at the Cliffs Of Moher I couldn’t believe my eyes~ but then again that happened to me quite often in my travel’s around such…a Magical Isle~.
What a lovely romp through Ireland through your eyes! I will be going the week of St. Patrick’s Day and am debating on driving up in Donegal. I (we) have always taken Bus Eirann on our romps, always a delight to mingle with the locals.
WE – MY DAUGHTER,ROSALIE ,AND i [FROM PORTLAND,OR,DID THIS FOR 7 DAYS,TOO. WE SAW DUBLIN,THEN BLARNEY,THEN SOUTH TO KILLARNEY AND THEN WEST TO CLIFFS , AND THEN DONEGAL AND THEN BELFAST AND THEN ON TO DUBLIN- WAS SERIOUSLY THE BEST TRIP EVER! I LOVED IT- OUR FAVE IS GUS O’OCONNOR;S PUB IN A LITTLE TOWN NEAR CLIFFS OF MOHER- BEING AN O’CONNOR MADE ME PREFERENTIAL! SUCH A FANTASTIC COUNTRY!
Caitlyn…very fun to read your comments and see your photos…our family toured this summer for 10 days and
visited all the same places …amazing you did this in
four days! Whew…how about those narrow roads?!
Colleen
Gig Harbor, WA
Wish I could do this . Lovely and great tale!
Great Story! My son just started his spring semester in Ireland, I just can’t wait to visit him and have a little adventure too!
Joy … that little village with O’Connor’s Pub is Doolin, County Clare where we always start our journey if we land at Shannon airport. Stopped in 1977 when I was driving the West by myself for 10 days and now always stop in Doolin for the local music nightly if its not tourist season. Three pubs with music nightly. Try them all!
My wife and I have used “Wonders of Ireland” by Eric Newby during four road trips in Ireland. We’ve been to many wonderful places that we probably would not have know about without the book. We’ve also had a few adventures and humorous experiences. If you want to see what’s off the beaten path, get the book and a GPS or Irish Ordnance Survey Discovery maps.
GREAT STORY….I really like your writing style…made me feel right there with you. Keep writing and taking photos..you have a real gift
Caitlyn, written so lovely than you convinced me without trying that a visit to Ireland needs to be added to our travel list. You are an amazing young woman with a wonderful outlook on life.
Aunt Betsy
We only live a short distance from the Cliffs of Moher. Why did you not drop in and we would have put a few extra spuds in the pot. We have visited most of the places you write about, and agree that they are beautiful. (We would say that). Come all Americans to the Emerald Isle. Cead Mile Failte to one and all.
Ger, Be careful what you say! We are headed there in May to visit our irish friends in Carna, County Galway whose rental cottage we stay at when we visit. We usually stay with Maeve Fitzpatrick in Doolin our first night then head for Carna and Mweenish Island where the cottage is. How wonderful to live so near the Cliffs! When I was there by myself in 1977 you could walk right to the edge. Just the Puffins and a few bird watchers then! Thanks for your welcome!
Cher, We live about 1hout from the Cliffs, and 35 minutes from Shannon. Are we to put a few extra few spuds in the pot for our new found friends?
My sister and I will be visiting Ireland for 6 nights in September. We are so excited. If anyone has special places to go we would appreciate having an email. We are staying at castle hotels that were booked through Dooley Vacations. Not so sure about driving on the left side of the road but did reserve an automatice since I didn’t think I could handle left side of the road as well as gear shift on the left!! Ireland sounds so great!
Kay,
If I did a little driving on the right in the U..S. then you can try your luck in my little Country on the left. Just be careful of the cows and sheep..