The Irish Pub: In Praise of Ireland’s Watering Holes
Ah, the pub. Cornerstone of community, culture and craic. Den of shoulder rubbing and bad joking. Where live music and lively chat intersect at a smooth mahogany bar.
The Palace Bar, Dublin
It’s more than occasionally true that our version of ‘one-horse’ towns are in fact ‘one-church one-shop three-pub’ towns. And it’s always the pubs that will be full, noisy with debate shouted over a guitar, darts hitting cork boards and the crack of pool balls being hit. Sometimes the pubs elbow into the ‘shop’ territory, lining half the bar with tinned foods and newspapers, and, you might even say with a raised eyebrow, venturing into church territory with their own open-air confession boxes.
We don’t need to convince you to visit an Irish pub on your trip to Ireland but we do want to give you a little taster of the experience. How to stroll in, pull up a pew at the bar and order like a local. And what to say when someone cops your accent (that’ll take about 10 seconds) and ask ‘and whatya doin’ around here so?’.
The hum of pub harmony at Belfast's Duke of York
A liquid literary legacy
Alright, it’s no secret that Dublin’s wordsmiths fancied a pint. In their selfless search for the meaning of life, they would perch themselves on the finest stools in Dublin’s finest watering holes and philosophize. And when we swan in the doors of pubs like Neary’s or snag the snug in the rugged charm of Toners (apparently the only pub in Dublin where W.B Yeats took a drink) we begin to understand. Joyce couldn’t write a book in Dublin without including a pub (take a bow Davy Byrne’s) and whether it’s rumour or not we like the idea of Gulliver’s Travels author (also Dean of St Patrick’s Cathedral) Jonathan Swift sipping a wee dram in the Brazen Head. Possibly, though, the mother of all Dublin’s literary drinking dens is the Palace Bar on Fleet Street. Step inside and taste the air (and the pints) that once nourished the comic genius of Flann O’Brien, the devil-may-care charm of Brendan Behan and the poetic perfection of Paddy Kavanagh. Sure, it’s enough to fill a novel *wink wink*.
How to decide? Let us talk you through it...
I’ll have a…
Surprising as it may be, it’s never easy choosing your drink in the pub. Your first few minutes inside the door are spent, arm over counter, scanning the lovely liquid and mumbling, ‘Ermmmmm. I’ll have aaaaaaaaaa…’ Don’t worry, though, because that’s all part of the fun. Will it be a glistening pint of porter with a thick head of cream just peeking over the glass, or a whiskey beside a peat fire with all that oaky, woody goodness charming your throat and your soul?
If your visit to the pub has been preceded by a long walk, and maybe a chill in your fingers, we’d highly recommend the reliable tummy warmer, an Irish Coffee. Bailey’s Coffee is a sweeter, creamier alternative. Both are so delicious you’ll think they were made by the hands of angels, not that beefy barman behind the counter.
When life gives you lemons…
Of course, we also have beverages of the non-alcoholic variety. Those of you who aren’t tickled by tipples should try a sparkling glass of our iconic red lemonade. Irish people are only crazy about the stuff. Is it because it reminds us of our childhood (birthday parties meant gallons of it) or that it can’t be found anywhere else and is consequently the thing we miss as much as our own mother when we leave Ireland? Have a sip, and tell us you understand our hysteria. In Northern Ireland, it’s all about the brown lemonade. Then there’s white, naturally, which is what everyone else around the world knows well. Yes, we’re probably the only island in the world where you need to specify a colour when ordering lemonade.
You heard right, there's a session goin' on
Session Seeking
So you’re sitting on a stool, swishing your whiskey/lemonade or combination of the two, and suddenly you’re jerked out of your daydream by a bearded fellow in an Aran sweater giving a bodhrán a right bang. A fiddle, banjo and a tin whistle later, and you’re front row at your first traditional music session. Hours later as you wave goodbye and shut the pub door behind you, you say to yourself – ‘I’m not sure what just happened, but I liked it’.
So “where, WHERE??, do we find such a session”, you ask. Every corner of the island, to be honest. Some particular notables are Dingle, and the rest of , County Cork next door, County Clare, and County Antrim and its hopping Glens. This map of every pub that holds a trad session, with times and costs, is invaluable. For Northern Ireland, you’ll find a list of the pubs here.
Pub Particulars
Let’s face it, if we had the time we’d visit all the pubs in Ireland. Life, though, gets in the way and our holidays can’t last forever. So, considering that you’re not able to check out every single pub, we know your next question is going to be, which one should you most definitely NOT miss?
Ah, don’t make us choose! See there’s a pub for every mood, whim, fancy for music and taste in wallpaper. A consensus in the office was simply impossible, so we let each person have their say:
The Crown Bar Saloon in Belfast
Aileen: For gas-lit gorgeousness it’s Belfast’s .
David: For those who like their pubs hidden in one of Ireland’s pretty side-streets it’s ; and for those who like their pubs with a little bit of literary history it’s Dublin’s .
Orla: It’s gotta be in Kildare. I tend to squeeze myself into a snug for a cosy catch-up and when it’s about that time, drag my friends onto the dancefloor.
Jonny: The Bodega on the Coal Quay is always good for a night out. It’s got really high ceilings and a fancy décor, which set it apart from your average Cork City late bar, nice mix of music too not just constant dance anthems = Win.
But, don’t just take our words for it. Pop over some time and find your own local.
Wondering what the coziest pubs would be? We’ve got the best pubs in Ireland for long winter nights.
You know those maestros behind the bar? Irish bartenders are a breed of themselves, as one cocktail shaker told us.
Just that you can walk in not knowing anyone, and walk out having 3 new friends. I’m American, and every time I’ve ever visited Ireland, it feels to me that the people in the pub really don’t care who you are, where you’re from, or your status in life. If you have a good attitude and a good story to tell, you are treated just the same as everyone else. I love the random trad sessions that creep up on you. Where I’m from, it’s like pulling teeth to get live music in the bars. Not Ireland. It seems to be a daily occurance.
During our month long stay in Dingle last year we made Murphy’s Pub our home base but for the best trad music try The Courthouse.
In my 5 trips to Ireland I haven’t found a pub I didn’t like
) They are all unique, different but the same. I can’t wait for trip #6.
Jim O’ The Mill Pub, County Tipperary, is a scene of traditional Irish music, with Johnny Cash, John Denver and ‘50’s saxophone music thrown in. People of all ages come from hours away, sitting in rows of old, wooden chairs, hearing wonderful musicians and singers. It’s been this way at this place for over 100 years. This place was magical. In a month long trip in spring 2011, we only got here twice. Other pubs were great fun, meeting people, included in a hen party, great music. Really enjoyed poc ar buile group in Kinsale.
I was amazed at the blending of the ages. Where I am from (WI, US) the twenty-somethings are in one bar, the thirty-somethings in theirs and etc. In Ireland, they all came together no matter the age. It was like family, it was comfortable and wonderful.
The music was also amazing. It really makes your evening seem magical!
I’d like to say that I regret that I saw more pubs than anything while in Ireland, but I can’t. It was just so much fun!
I would give anything to visit an Irish Pub. Just to be with real Irish Folk.
My husband and I recently went to Dublin and the west coast of Ireland. It was a wonderful visit, and it just wouldn’t have been complete without visiting some of Ireland’s famous pubs.
In answer to the question, What we liked about the pubs was getting fresh Guiness on tap, the people and really good pub food. You’ll meet some wonderful characters if you take a minute to say “Hey, we’re here from …….. Davy Byrnes has wonderful fish and chips and incredible soup. Can’t wait to go back.
Loved this piece. The Palace Bar in Dublin and The Crown in Belfast have two of the most beautifully-preserved pub interiors I know in Ireland. Great to see them featured here.
I spent 3 days in one place on a self-organized tour and the Pub I loved was Danny Manns! Wonderful bride and bridesmaids celebrateing the future wedding where one of their older (grey haired and lively) teachers got up and danced with the group to the music. I learned to pronounce “bodrahian” and was in heaven on earth…..AHHHHH IRELAND!
I went to a trip to Cork last year and found The Oval – what a col pub. Loved it! Also this is a great website for finding sessions http://www.findtradfolk.com
I run dance and music tours to Ireland and we focus on the pubs with great sessions (and where we might be able to get up and dance a set). Some of my favorites are the Crane in Galway (Dessie O’Halloran stops in whenever we’re in town), Malone’s and Friel’s in Miltown Malbay, the Corner House in Ardara, Brogan’s in Ennis and O’Connor’s in Doolin. These are just a few and of course they’re all great! Support them so they can keep providing us with friendship, music and craic!
Last year I photographed pubs throughout donegal and uploaded them to Flick for sharing. Perhaps you’ve been to one of them?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donegalcottageholidays/sets/72157625770513776/
Among so many good pubs it is slightly unfair to mention one and not the others. I have had so many good monets in the Irish pubs. An Pucan Bar in Galway and O’Donoghues Bar in Dublin comes to mind. Loved every second and I will be back. The best pubs in the world are Irish! I couldn’t agree more. All the best frem cold Denmark.
As an American it is important to use proper pub etiquette. My favorite pubs, the Harbour bar in Bray, Neary’s bar Dublin, I’ll second O’Donoghue’s and O’Connors. My favorite thing to do is find a small town and have a pint in the only pub in town, stay quiet and listen.
Cheers
i love this pub soo much