The Skellig Islands
As if County Kerry wasn’t spectacular enough with hotspots like Killarney and Kenmare, the Skellig Islands come along with their own ‘wow’ factor
It’s said from any point on the Ring of Kerry, these pinnacles can be seen standing stoically against the ravages of the Atlantic Ocean. From very far away, they look like oversized jagged rocks but up close – they are full of surprises.
The view of the smaller Skellig from Skellig Michael
One of the many beehive huts where the monks lived
Skellig Michael (Sceilg Mhichil in Irish), the largest island of the two, was home to one of the earliest monastic settlements in Ireland.
The earliest reference to the Skelligs dates back to 600AD when it was known as St Fionan’s monastery. The monks remained until the 13th century before evacuating the island, leaving behind their huts. The corbelled roofs in the beehive-shaped huts are so well-built that no drop of rain ever entered between the stones.
Skellig Michael became a place of pilgrimage and today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Wear your walking shoes
To reach the monastery, you must climb 500 steps on a 1,000 year old stairway. The archaeological remains show how this early Christian community lived in extremely basic conditions. Their huts hovered precariously near the cliff edge, alongside oratories, a cemetery, stone crosses, holy wells and the Church of St Michael. These monks were tough cookies – they survived several Viking raids over the centuries – not to mention living in the Atlantic Ocean.
Remains of the high crosses
Feathered friends
Small Skellig has its own famous residents, who remain to this day. There are over 54,000 gannets, the second largest colony of such sea birds in the world. Puffins, arctic terns, black guillemots, herring gulls, razorbills, fulmars, manx shearwaters, cormorants, guillemots, and petrels also call the Skelligs home.
The Skelligs’ official lookout
“Stormy”, one Skellig storm petrel, even earned her inclusion in the Guinness Book of Records. She undertook her annual migration journey – 10,000km each way – for 26 years. Her ring, which tracked her travels, can be seen at the Skellig Experience today.
A handful of the 54,000 gannets on the island
Get the boat
You can see these otherworldly islands from the shore but if you want to set foot on such an unusual site then a guided boat tour is your best bet. A few companies charter boats to Skellig Michael and their guides will fill you in on all you need to know.
The puffins are enjoying the sea breeze
The tours can be weather dependent because rough seas will prevent boats docking as this New York Times journalist found out: “It’s one of those riddles of human ambition – how, and why, did people build in such a forbidding place?”. But once you get there, it’ll all have been worth it.
The Skellig’s dramatic rock face
Travelling to the island isn’t recommended for visitors with reduced mobililty. Instead you can enjoy the Skellig Experience, which is a visitor centre on the mainland with exhibitions on the history of the island, the former Christian community and the resident birds. They are not open all year round so make sure to check in advance.
While you make your way to the magical monastic site, make sure to take in the breathtaking beauty of County Kerry, including Killarney, the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula.
It’s disgraceful how this extremely important archeological site with massive cultural significance is trampled on relentlessly each year by as you say: “thousands of visitors”. This is a very fragile place, both ecologically and archeologically, and there is no regulation on the amount of tourists that can walk all over it, eroding the steps and the monastic settlement. Skellig Mhichil is NOT a theme park.
Great article. The Skellig Islands are now on our itinerary for our upcoming trip to Ireland.
Thank you.
wish i had known of this place when i visited ireland 2 yrs ago. would have loved visiting here.
Let us know how you get on Kathy, hopefully the weather will be in your favour!
Would love to go here to see the Puffins
The Skelligs are one of Irelands most impressive pilgrim sites.
Any of our groups who have visited the Ireland have felt very lucky to have the opportunity to enjoy the experience.
would love to go there and see the all the birds it looks so nice
Hi Michael
You’re absolutely right, Skellig Michael is not a theme park. It is a wilderness site, UNESCO World Heritage Site and a designated Nature Reserve with a unique and challenging landscape. Visitors must take care at all times.
The site is operated by the Office of Public Works. They ensure the island is manned between mid-May and October, visits to the island during all the other months are prohibited. Visits to Little Skellig are always prohibited.
Although it is a challenge to allow visitors to an island with a nature reserve, we believe that the Skelligs are one of the most incredible places in Ireland and of huge significance to our heritage. That is why we think visitors should be able to see the Skellig Michael for themselves.
The OPW allows visitors on a restricted basis but the island will never become a ‘theme park’.
If you don’t want to visit the island, you might enjoy the Skellig experience on the mainland.
Cheers, Aileen
Thanks, Orla! Our stay in Killawalla, County Mayo, this past September was lovely. The weather cooperated beautifully! Our stay in Caherdaniel, Co. Kerry is planned for early September of this year so I hope the weather will be the same. Even if it’s not, I’m sure I wont be disappointed.
In regards to the comment made by Michael; I think people, such as myself, that go out of their way to take in natural and historic sites like this have a great reverence for those places, and, hopefully, treat them with the respect they deserve.
Cheers!
Love Ireland anyway. Especially the South West, all coastlines, the friendly people, their witt and careless kind of life. Relax might be written on their shoulders.